To tell the truth, I’ve felt pretty shitty for almost 2 months. Maybe something I caught on the airplane coming back from Hawaii. My chi’s been flatlining.
WELL, I’ve finally come out of it and yesterday I went surfing—for the 2nd time in 3 months—on the Sonoma coast. Windy, just a few guys out, robust swell. Had my 10′ Haut 3-fin Surftech board. Got 2 rides, the first a late takeoff and I proned it—fun!— then shakily got to my feet riding the foam. Pretty feeb. 2nd ride I kneeled. Hey, I’ll take whatever I can get.
The hard thing for old guys is going from paddling to upright. Once I’m up I’m fine, but right now my getting up is not a pretty sight. Gonna work on it.
BUT my energy level is off the charts. The magic of the Pacific Ocean…
Every time I drag myself out into the world and get physical, I feel great. Well, duh!